Under the bridge and up the hill … focaccia col formaggio di Recco

We’d tried this before.

But it had been closed. Or we were too late. And in the months that followed when we were back in Australia, Paolo would send us photos of him grinning wickedly, holding a tray of fresh, hot, oozing, focaccia col formaggio … the autentica one, the 10 out of 10 one, the one under the bridge in Recco, the one we’d missed. Damn it!

So this time, we were on a promise.


I suspect that for many Genovese you only have to mention the word Recco and they’ll start salivating.


Because under the bridge, in this little coastal town just east of Genova, the Panificio Moltedo has made an art form of focaccia col formaggio – since 1874.

It’s a pilgrimage.


Finger in the cheek stuff, the Genovese sign for molto buonissimo.

louise-and-the-girls from moltedo-panifici-pasticcerie



Fresh, hand made trofie and pesto, another local speciality.  We’d come to that later in the week …


But first, back to the boys waiting impatiently in the car …

“Where have you been!!?? We’re starving!”

A speedy, winding ride up the hill to the quiet grounds of the Chiesa Nostra Signora delle Grazie.

Chiesa Nostra Signora delle Grazie, Recco

And let the picnic begin … creamy, salty crescenza cheese baked and melted between two, impossibly thin layers of pastry.

paolo and steve Recco

steve paolo and focaccia col formaggio

steve hoes in

Finger in the cheek all they way. 10 out of 10. But baste! Baste. Enough Paolo. I can’t. Yes, OKayyy you finish it 😉

A view that looks east towards Camogli and to the point of Punta Chiappa. On the other side of the peninsula lies the ritzy little port of Portafino.

looking towards camogli from recco

But this suited us just fine. We had the whole place to ourselves and behind the church, walking paths headed off in every direction past hidden villas.

Out of the river.

I think these narrow paths are one of my favourite parts of the Ligurian coastline.

This spot kickstarted a silly conversation that continued throughout the week “Imagine! Maddy could get married here! Or Darce!”


hidden villa recco

walking path behind recco

recco walking path



Invites are in the mail 😉

Tuck this one away if you’re ever near Genova.

Recco. Under the bridge. And up the hill.

It’s a little beauty.


Panificio Moltedo.
Via Biagio Assereto, 15, Recco, Italy

Chiesa Nostra Signora delle Grazie
Sal. Megli, 12, Recco GE, Italy

And directly opposite the church is a restaurant that Paolo said is very nice
Al Baretto

And Louise & Paolo’s Forest View B&B, Sottovalle.

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